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Ensemble

Designer Tomo Koizumi Japanese
fall/winter 2019–20
Not on view
Seven geometric shapes made of pleated tulle meet each other in this exuberantly colorful silhouette, which, when in movement, evokes the gently rippling flora of a coral reef. The collection was inspired by the arresting op-art aesthetic of performance artist Leigh Bowery as well as the hanawa, a Japanese funerary banner decorated with plastic floral designs. A man-made concoction of synthetic fabric and skillful craftsmanship, this dress embodies Susan Sontag's statement that "Camp is the spirit of extravagance," as she quipped in her 1964 essay Notes on Camp.

Artwork Details

Object Information
  • Title: Ensemble
  • Designer: Tomo Koizumi (Japanese, born 1988)
  • Date: fall/winter 2019–20
  • Culture: Japanese
  • Medium: synthetic fiber
  • Credit Line: Purchase, Friends of The Costume Institute Gifts, 2019
  • Object Number: 2019.596a–g
  • Curatorial Department: The Costume Institute

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Ensemble, Comme des Garçons Japanese, (a) wool, cotton, metal; (b) wool; (d) cotton; (c) metal, leather, Japanese
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Multiple artists/makers
spring/summer 2006
Ensemble, Comme des Garçons Japanese, (a) polyester, cotton, nylon, (b, c) cotton, nylon, (d, e) polyester, plastic (synthetic rubber), Japanese
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