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Sautoir

ca. 1908
Not on view
This superb sautoir, consisting of a multi-strand gold foxtail-link chain and a large pendant opal, is marked by the New York firm of Marcus & Co., whose reputation at its prime rivaled that of Tiffany & Co. Herman Marcus (1828–99), a German–born and Dresden–trained jeweler, arrived in New York in 1850 and worked for a number of prestigious firms before establishing Marcus & Co. in 1892. Following his death, the company continued under the direction of his two sons, George Elder Marcus and William Marcus. The magnificent drop-shaped black opal, with its textured surface and striations, is enclosed in a surround of enameled gold iris blossoms and leaves that continues onto the back of the pendant. This inventive design reflects the Arts & Crafts aesthetic and parallels the naturalistic work of Louis Comfort Tiffany (1848–1933).

Artwork Details

Object Information
  • Title: Sautoir
  • Maker: Marcus and Co. (American, New York, 1892–1942)
  • Date: ca. 1908
  • Geography: Made in New York, New York, United States
  • Culture: American
  • Medium: Gold, opal, and enamel
  • Dimensions: Approximately 18 in. (45.7 cm)
  • Credit Line: Purchase, Barrie A. and Deedee Wigmore Foundation Gift, 2015
  • Object Number: 2015.588
  • Curatorial Department: The American Wing

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