Orphrey woven with figurative repeat design of seraphim with IHS Christogram in glories
Although this object resembles the reverse of a chasuble– the tabard-like garment worn by a Catholic priest during church services– this is a modern composite of a central, figurative, woven orphrey strip (33.39.7) with two lengths of lampas silk (33.39.8a, .8b), assembled soon after the three elements entered The Met's collection in 1933.
Although, at first glance, this orphrey (33.39.7) resembles the orphreys embellished with repeat figurative elements woven in Lucca in the sixteenth century (like, for example, 33.39.13 also in The Met's collection), the stiffness of the material, strong purple-black color, rigid contours of the motifs, and the use of "faux" metal-thread effects all suggest that this is a much later iteration– still woven in Lucca but probably made during the nineteenth century in emulation of the city's earlier production and representative of a long-standing and embedded weaving tradition. The side panels (33.39.8a, .8b), in contrast, almost certainly were created for and used as part of a sixteenth-century chasuble, long since dismembered.
Although, at first glance, this orphrey (33.39.7) resembles the orphreys embellished with repeat figurative elements woven in Lucca in the sixteenth century (like, for example, 33.39.13 also in The Met's collection), the stiffness of the material, strong purple-black color, rigid contours of the motifs, and the use of "faux" metal-thread effects all suggest that this is a much later iteration– still woven in Lucca but probably made during the nineteenth century in emulation of the city's earlier production and representative of a long-standing and embedded weaving tradition. The side panels (33.39.8a, .8b), in contrast, almost certainly were created for and used as part of a sixteenth-century chasuble, long since dismembered.
Artwork Details
- Title: Orphrey woven with figurative repeat design of seraphim with IHS Christogram in glories
- Date: 19th century
- Culture: Italian, possibly Lucca
- Medium: Silk and linen
- Dimensions: L. 44 1/4 x W. 6 1/8 inches (112.4 x 15.6 cm)
Dimensions as joined: L. 51 1/2 x W. 25 inches (130.8 x 63.5 cm) - Classification: Textiles-Woven
- Credit Line: Gift of Mrs. Van Santvoord Merle-Smith, 1933
- Object Number: 33.39.7
- Curatorial Department: European Sculpture and Decorative Arts
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